1 SEPTEMBER 2005

Well the time is here at long last.
It's 3 AM  and wer'e packed for a Expedition of note.
Our first camp will be at Quiver Tree Forrest in Keetmanshoop, some 1000KM from Cape Town. 

2ND Sept

A long day on the road with many a Red Bull in hand to keep the senses alert.
We broke camp at 4 AM after a rest as this is a transit stop.
We spent time with the captive cheetahs and Meerkats.
There is something fascinating about the Quiver Tree Forrest as you gaze up at the sunset .

3RD Sept

Another long day as we cross the line of Capricorn to our next stop at Kalahari Sands Hotel in Windhoek.
We arrive dead on 12 in the afternoon to be met by the Ministerof Education for Namibia and reporters from a handful of local newspapers.
A marvellous day was had as we unwind from a long 1500 KM drive from Cape Town, after 20 Hours on the road out of 48.

4 September

It is Saturday and Windhoek is gradually waking up as we do some last minute shopping and depart for our next destination, Maun , Botswana , 800 km if my calculations are right. En route, we distribute writing materials to a small town called Witvlei, we then press on to towns such as Gobabis and on to the border. A border crossing with not too much hassle and we drive a distance to Ghanzi where we fill up and make a stop at villages on the way, again leaving with kids smiling and handfuls of stationary from Walton's. Repeatedly we are received with the cry for pen as we make our way to Maun. We are eventually carried away with our distributing, not realizing the time and distance to Maun. Therefore, it is the situation we find our selves driving at night, which one never undertakes in African travel, due to the goats, cattle, donkeys etc that we encounter. At 20h30, we arrive at Audi Camp, where a quick meal is prepared at the restaurant. Later sees us setting up camp and we hit the sack listening to what seems to be Saturday night fever in the local surrounding villages. We have traveled 2300 km since leaving Cape Town .

5 September

After a long night of noise from the bordering village we get up and go to town to buy some supplies, one thing you realize is that, you cannot have too much water and cold drinks. The town of Maun has the basic needs one would need; there is a Spar, Woolworths, Stanbic, First National Bank a well-known Riley's Garage and a garage that will in turn service your Landy, and an international airport. On our rounds of changing some money and sending e-mail, we approached a local church in town, The Revelation Blessed Peace Church where we were introduced to the Bishop. We make a distribution for the churches children. We arrive at camp and mill about packing the vehicle properly and attaching the green mesh to the front windows, to prevent flies entering whilst driving. The night ended with a braai and an early sleep.

6 September

The day has started with a fruitless attempt at booking a campsite at Savuti, Chobe National Park as predicted. It seems nothing changes at the Maun Head Quarters of National Parks in terms of all the camps being Fully Booked. We then proceeded to the park with this knowledge that they are fully booked. En route, we came to a village late in the day and were able with permission to set up camp there whilst spending the day with the children, blowing up soccer balls and distributing stationary. We are aware at all times as we throw our pop up shower cubicle, that we are entertaining, after then dropping our pump into our water tank, pulled the shower arm, and did the necessary. The night ended with constant yelping of Hyena whilst they finish eating up an elephant carcass out side the village. We leave the village and make our way through a thick sandy road to Mababwe Gate, where we pay the exorbitant fees and proceed to the camp. We encounter a handful of elephant en route but not much to talk about, quite disappointing, the lack of water is I supposed a contributing factor. Later on in the day, we arrive at Savuti camp ,to an expected empty camp. We decided to go for a drive to the water hole after speaking to a fellow traveler that 29 Lion were in the area, eating off an elephant killed some days before. Luck was not on our side, although we were able to view for some time a group of elephant at the water hole. We came across the elephant carcass eventually, which the lion had eaten but, no lion. After a well-deserved shower, we made camp and a traditional braai ensued. As night falls, the bush awakens and with this in mind, we packed everything away in the vehicle as well as us in the tent. As the night grows old, the sounds of elephant being harassed became apparent, the next sounds which were closer led us to believe who was doing the harassing, Lion. After a night of roaring, we were not surprised that the spoors next to the vehicle were indeed Lion.

7 September

A shower ensued and we hit the water hole, hoping to see a carcass in some sadistic manner, but no joy. With a quick look around, nothing was about so we made for our next stop at Chobe Safari Lodge in Kasane. A long road North then on to the tar road running across through the Chobe was great relief, we made stationary available at a village called Kachekau. We eventually arrive at Chobe Safari Lodge, welcomed with a glass each of much needed juice. The welcome from staff and Miriam Slovaka, sales executive was expected. A much welcomed shower and drink at the bar along the riverside was the reward at the end of the day. A buffet of exotic dishes including Impala, Springbok and other interesting treats were available. The night was an early one as we had a comfortable sleep awaiting and much needed.

8 September

Eighth of September was a big day, it began by attending a primary school in Kasane where we were met by staff and head teacher as well as a reporter and a representative of ministry of education. Our donation of stationary to the school was as they depend on this and we felt very welcome. Our next mission was crossing the Kazungula ferry, which we did not wait long for, then crossed into Zambia . Every thing went fine and we made our way to our next camp at Zambezi Waterfront, sponsored by Safari Par Excellence. The fun set in when we decided to view the Victoria Falls, at the entrance we halted by an official at a roadblock to the Vic Falls . He walks over and asks for my Third party insurance document, which I know I do not have, with immediate authority the officer states I have committed a serious offence. I explained that hours earlier when we crossed the border from Botswana , no body mentioned that we buy this, and nobody checked for once as we left. I also tried to explain that considering we are next to another border post, I can rectify this serious offence. I was then asked to park at the police station and follow him, I was told to follow to a tiny office where I was instructed to sit on a bench at his feet, about 4 inches from the floor. Again I was read the riot act and a book was opened and pushed into my face, where I was told repeatedly that I committed a serious offence, So while this persisted and was interrogated like a criminal, I knew I had to do what I do best in these situations. As I explained again that, he was so kind to let me know of this crime I committed and that I can now correct this next door and bring him this #### document. Eventually, the officer releases me, I came back with document and showed it to him and explained what a fine officer he was for making this possible and making me know I was at fault. I further mentioned to the officer's superior that, they should contact the other border post, and make sure everyone knows to buy this third party insurance before proceeding, Again I was asked about a fine I should pay, which I failed to pursue, in doing this I left and realized why they were laughing on my departure. I forgot my sun glasses, as I always take them off when an officer approaches. It was a very quick view of the Vic falls; we then made our way back to camp where we boarded the sunset cruise. The cruise was breathtaking; I am not sure why I had a feel of being sick for the first half an hour, if it was the first few drinks or the situation prior. The sun setting on the Zambezi and elephant coming to drink at the banks made up for it. We made our way back to the house to find it a sanctuary for mosquitoes, realizing why we have nets at the bed.

9 September

Having left Livingstone, we make our journey to Shesheke where were joined with another dirt road that is supposed to be the M10, after some 25 KM, we arrive at Sakazima Lodge. Having passed it for about 5 km, before realizing, eventually we arrive at Paradise . After a couple of hoots at the gate, a person, Chris on a motor boat, greets us. He told us that the lodge is under construction and that he has no knowledge of our arrival. With no further explaining, he taxied us by boat across the Zambezi to the island. Sakazima is a island on the Zambezi with beautiful surroundings, we were the only guests at the time and were treated like royalty from our arrival to departing. We stayed in a chalet at the water edge listening to the rapids, what a pleasure. The evening brought a boat ride and a try at Tiger fishing, yes the big one got away, fortunately another 2 minutes and the fishing rod was pulled out my hands by another, eventually that ever so elusive Tiger was landed. Then we have supper and drinks by candlelight, and a sighting of a baby crocodile at the water edge, 3 steps from where we ate.

10 September

The next day see us receiving coffee and rusks at our doorstep and a boat ride to view the surrounding area, taken by Delia. The day continued with a guided walk and boat trip to the neighboring island and boating on the main Zambezi River , full of crocodile and birdlife, followed by another great dish of delights and sunset. A beautiful stay, hosted by a wonderful couple Chris and Delia.

16 September 2005

I am sitting with a flickering citronella candle at my side to ward of any bugs. Luangwa Bridge Camp is the choice today. A day made easier at the start with a purchase of a much-needed laptop, in Lusaka . The day is a struggle with continuous stomach problems. The road became a nightmare out of Lusaka , as I hit a speed trap just on the outskirts. With the usual pleading not to have a fine as it's an inconvenience and the fact that I was 6 KM over the limit. Fortunately, my attempts were fruitful and we are instructed to go on, the first decision was to have us go back to Lusaka central police station where we would be forgiven, apparently. The day is long and hard, the road surprisingly is in good condition since my last visit some 4 years ago. A decision is to turn in at Luangwa Bridge Camp as it was getting late and there is no way we will make S Luangwa by sunset. On arrival a beautiful setting, one would associate with Africa epic journeys. As we sit down and contemplate, the view and the way forward with a cold beer in hand, it is felt that it will start to really get tough from now. The night is greeted with that picture perfect sunset and we sit down to a quick fix meal, one pot of water and five ingredients , that is all that is required and a good night sleep. Unfortunately, a group of hopeful travelers ascended to the camp late at night to make themselves supper and decided it would be a good idea that we wake up and hear all about it.

17 September

The day starts early with the hustle and bustle of the villagers making there way past camp and the faint cry of an African Fish Eagle. Our first stop after departing camp is at the Luangwa Bridge , we are met surprisingly by an army official asking us for the usual documentation and of course, what have we brought for him­. As we travel East along the T4, we are met with a road from hell in terms of pot holes. The progress forward is slow as we are heavy and do not want to break any more shocks. The other problem worth mentioning is the price of fuel, as we pay $ 20 per 14 liters of diesel. Toward the end of the day, we see our selves, once again chasing the sunset to camp. The road ahead after the tar road is one of great excitement one would expect after a heavy day of dodging pot holes, 130 km of corrugated gravel road where we see ourselves skidding everywhere, as we did not deflate our tires accordingly. Eventually we arrive at Flat Dogs camp where we met with Thornicroft Giraffe and Elephant at the entrance. With the sun setting as we sit at the Luangwa riverbank, another journey is beckoning.

18 September

It has to be noted, going to sleep with the rumble of Hippos in the close surroundings and waking up to, the sound of Fish Eagles crying is terrible. An early rise and its decided that some clothes washing and perhaps a night game drive in the park later will be the order of the day. As I sit here with Golden Baboons around me and the Luangwa ambling past, one has to just stop and think about how far we are and have traveled, to get to this awesome place. I am looking up and have just realized I have a huge sausage fruit dangling above, how life can change at an instant. As the day grows, we decide to go and chill out at the bar and update the diary, whilst watching Manchester Utd play Liverpool . It is late and we are collected for our game drive into the South Luangwa National Park . The view from the open top long wheelbase Land Cruiser is awesome, as the golden sunsets behind the African Bush rustled by elephant and hippo. The game drive is an absolute must for both bird and animal lovers, being a preferred animal lover, I was a little disappointed in what we saw, certainly as the night grew, we expected the cats to come out, especially leopard as the park is famous for sightings. The night certainly comes to life once we arrive to our tent, in terms of an elephant in camp on the rampage, breaking down trees, as well as foraging hippo. It is quite nerve wracking when an elephant decides to flatten your surroundings, we think it will be ok as we sleep in a roof tent, but elephant can reach!

19 September

It is time to leave Luangwa and head for Malawi . We pay our expensive bill and make our way via the rather corrugated road to Chipata. The border crossing is straight forward, and we pay our third party insurance, which we will not forget to do in a hurry. Lilongwe is our first stop, and it is at Kiboko Safari camp, we make our sponsored stay. As we mill about the camp, where we relax and have an early sleep.

20 September

We have decided to fill up with diesel and do some banking, the situation so far sees us using our cash instead of plastic for diesel, and the diesel is fortunately $1 per liter. As we make our way to the Stanbic bank, which is supposed to be part of Standard Bank, then Enquiries tells me I cannot receive a statement, which is unfortunate. Therefore, we proceed with some much needed shopping as we are let down by a leading food brand on departing Cape Town , which we were relying on. As I brought this to the Shoprite managers' attention, he made a call to the GM, of who asked for a letter from me in which Shoprite Lilongwe sponsored an amount, in which we were very thankful. With a lot of shopping etc we decided another day was sufficient at the camp in Lilongwe as we have to pack the Landy right. Supper came and went and a hopeful night of good sleep turned to disaster, after a group descended on to the seating area outside our chalet, after which a vehicle kept arriving in to camp with a siren going off, to the amusement of the local dogs as they followed suit.

21 September

We are up at day light and on the road toward Salima, we thought. With bad, non-existent road signs, we passed the road leading to the coast, some 10 KM. Fortunately, by reading the GPS, Routing us north rather than East, we realized we were wrong. They are essential items to any Expedition. After another roadblock, how are you, where you going, where you from, we found the right direction. A quick visit to the Lilongwe airport, for a different departure and we were back on the road to the lake. After about 250 Km, we met up with the most beautiful view, the islands of Mumbo, Tumbe and Domwe. The campsite, Fat Monkeys at Cape McClear , is synonymous for this view and good camping. Borris the camp manager and recent shareholder are a delight and accommodating, also sponsors our stay. The day spent milling about the camp watching the setting sun, which really is not describable. The night was a quiet affair, with not many in camp.

22 September

Another day in what must be paradise, besides the constant harassment by the local beach inhabitants for boat rides and curios and spliff, fish, fruit etc eventually they get the point with a stern no! We make our way through the village with no bother, just warm greetings by the villagers and we stop at Kayak Africa, who is glad to sponsor us for a night on Mumbo Island and become part of this Expedition. The remainder of the day is spent swimming on the lake shore and watching the sun set, knocking a couple of beers back and a pizza, ordered from the camp restaurant, this is what the lake is all about, chilling out.

23 September

Up early and we break up camp and make our way to the local primary school with a total of 1630 learners, 1630 of little troubles I remarked to the Head Teacher. They were as all are thankful for our untimely visit with these needed materials. With our work complete there, we made our way to Kayak Africa and taken by boat across to Mumbo Island . On arrival passing by many Fish Eagles, we could not believe our eyes, here is paradise! The experience is staying in a tented chalet with mesh windows all round and a swinging hammock outside. The views spectacular as you face the lake on the edge, starring at the Malawi Cichlids from above. Then lunch is waiting, I still do not know how they arrive with such a varied spectacular buffet. The same goes for supper and breakfast. I reckon they have some sort of bush 5 star chef in the background. Our guide Dan is marvelous, and gives us the run down on the Island and supplies us with our own kayak and mask and snorkels. Therefore, with no further ado, we are under the water watching the different colours of fish species unfold. The sun sets and we sit down for another great three-course meal. The scene is set for that one and only legendary sleep.

24 September

The day starts by the cry of many Fish Eagles and a stunning sunrise. Then again an awesome breakfast and more attempts at snorkeling and a try at Kayaking. Lunch was next and a boat trip back to mainland, this I have to say was the most frightening experience to date, as I am no water baby and fear water. The boat could have been a little bigger for my liking; the size of QE 2 would have sufficed. Unfortunately, for every one around me including Kat giving me assurances, I could not for the life of me, keep lunch in. Once we arrived, I had to finish of some business in a reed hut and find my wobbling legs. It was Fat Monkeys camp again and a quick meal and bed.

25 September

Today we celebrate our own anniversary together as well as the anniversary of the launch, a month ago. The day starts early as always and we make our way to Senga Bay , again the wrong way, as there are no signs, frustrating. We make our way via the Matukatuka road, which is going to be tar soon, all the way to Monkey Bay . Will this best kept secret become open, and commercialized, is it good for the communities, in terms of more growth and jobs, or the lure of more villagers to the region from the interior, hoping for a better life. Possibilities of diseases, among incoming travelers and drivers who crave this part of the world tend to be part. We arrive at our next destination, Steps camp at Livingstonia Beach . The place seems a dump, and on arriving full of partygoers and people braaing for the day. At the entrance, we asked to tow a local, with no difficulty. The hotel next door is very expensive so we resort to eating a plate of chips and a coupe of drinks, which took an hour to have ordered. The camp was quieter on our arrival and we made camp on the beach and swam with the sun setting. A romantic braai was the order and we made an early attempt to sleep.

26 September

Woken by the anglers doing there thing, we make for another early day on the road, the route M5 going North to our next destination, Kande Beach, was in good condition. Our camp we arrived at sponsored our accommodation and we made use of the internet and the local lake in front for another swim. With some seven overland trucks in camp, we felt a little intimidated, so we made another cowboy dinner and went to bed. At the lake, not too much is done except swim or other water sports. Horse riding is an option at this camp.

27 September

It is a busy morning with a few days' clothes washing to do in the way of locals by using the lake. It truly is a remarkable sight. Next on the agenda was to wash our selves by the same method, this is actually probably a safer bet than using some of the camp ablutions we have been accustomed too. Next was to sun tan and send e-mails. As I have said, the days are busy at the lake. With all this out the way we had a siesta then were joined by an overland co. Drifters for a braai. Kande Beach is a camp which really only caters for the overland truck fraternity. They truck in and truck out.

28 September

Another day of doing nothing was the order, where swimming took precedence. Another braai and a close encounter with a striped belly snake outside our door and not much else to mention, except packing the Landy straight and taking out the necessary stationary to distribute locally. One has to be present at these encounters with the element of surprise, to understand.

29 September

An early rise and we were off to the Kande primary school, consisting of 1400 learners. As always, we were met with curiosity and then with joy, we only wish the sponsors involved could witness the jubilation we receive. The driving became worse as we arrived in Mzuzu, with potholes. After again missing a turn off, as there was no sign, so we lost 10 KM again. Eventually we arrived at Livingstonia after a slow drive due to steep mountain passes. We decided to carry on, as it was still early. The next town we stopped at was Karonga, on arrival we tried to find accommodation, but failed to and again carry on. Unexpectedly we arrived at the Malawi / Tanzania border. On crossing, we realized that we have lost an hour and that it was becoming dark. The road again was slow due to mountain passes and local village life with animals, which become a danger. The clock is ticking and we are again driving in the dark in a strange country not knowing where we will be staying, not the best scenario. We arrive at a Mosquito infested, Great Rift Valley hotel, Mbeya. After looking at the menu, a plate of chips were ordered and our first taste of Tanzania beer, Kilimanjaro. Our night sleep broken by mosquitos and sudden alarm, of the Land Rover. Due to the alarm sounding, Kat jumped up and injured her knee in the process, the Landy checked out whilst finding the first aid bags. A feeble attempt made to sleep.

30 September

I pleasantly find the reason for the alarm sounding, a rear puncture. A compressor attached and the flat tire pumped up, until we find a garage. On finding a garage in a strange town, it is stressful. We come across a garage with a tire-fitting workshop but not repairs. So whilst busy, they broke the only wheel spanner we had, more stress, did not think of bringing a spare. Therefore, they battled to loosen the nuts and the dreaded lock nut, which been since discarded. Eventually the spanner was grinded down to fit and the wheel exchanged with our spare. Back on the road and we head for a campsite called Kasolonza, which is a farm of sorts, before the town of Iringa . After a day of relaxing on arrival, supper is prepared in an attempt at having an early sleep. A couple from Switzerland joined us; they are driving a Kombi and heading for Cape Town . How they have made it so far from Switzerland , I will never know.

1 October

Another long day driving dangerous roads with buses and trucks driving as if they won there licenses playing TV games. We arrive in Dar es Salaam , it is peak traffic and we are not in the mood. It goes dark and we are frantically trying to find a camp called Silver Sands. After an hour, we find it and we are not amused as we enter the dirty scruffy camp, and the lights go out, everywhere. Therefore, cold showers with no lights go down well after the day we have had on the road.

2 October

The usual overland trucks in camp and occupants awake us, along with a light drizzle and the passing of soldiers in training and war cry in tow. The first site as we climb down the ladder is the Indian Ocean , with a typical Dhow passing. The site is awesome and synonymous with East Africa . We break camp and make our way to our sponsored stay at the Holiday Inn, Dar es Salaam . We are now discussing how to distribute in Zanzibar , where we have to ferry across in a couple of days.

After a rude awakening at Silver Sands camp, we have moved on to down town Dar where we accommodated at Holiday Inn. It really is nice to have a descent shower and toilet, the things we take for granted in our everyday lives. How we are spoilt, the Holiday Inn even has a pillow menu, so you can decide on comfort. Whilst we were there, we arranged to visit Zanzibar where we too would distribute. Organized and sponsored by the very kind Adam Fuller of Dar es Salaam , Holiday Inn. Next on the agenda was to relax and work on the internet at the business center. A quick check up by the Hotel nurse takes place as I have at least 50 insect bites on each leg as well as terrible stomach and nausea. The day too is to get some clothes washed, without breaking our backs. Holiday Inn makes for a good base.

The day is so to have the necessary done in terms of puncture repaired, food suplies , and meetings with possible sponsors. We then make our way to the Sudan Embassy, as we believe it can take from a month or longer to attain a visa, if you lucky. To our dismay, the bomb dropped so to speak, as we learn that the border to the West of Sudan closed indefinitely due to the fighting in the Darfur region. The other option is via Egypt , which means paying a very large percentage of the vehicle value for a Carnet. This unfortunately is not on our route and nor in our budget. We decided we would continue as far as we feel viable, and then make a later decision. Later we made our way to Shoprite; fortunately, the manager was interested in our Expedition and became a sponsor of supplies. Another fantastic meal at the Hotel restaurant and a relaxing night ensued.

It is an early breakfast as we taxied to the airport. We boarded with some difficulty as we repeatedly checked by security. We are bussed to the waiting plane on the runway, I have a lump in my throat, and I am not a good flier. The take of was brisk and before we knew it we were flying over the Indian Ocean for 15 minutes to our destination, Zanzibar . On arrival, I became ill and spent the time between hotel and airport, throwing up outside the window. We arrived at the most scenic of views at the Serena Inn , where we accommodated. Unfortunately, I spent the first few hours being sick, so we decided to have a few hours sleep, then venture into town. After a good sleep, we saw the most amazing view of a dhow floating past with the sun beating down. We decided to buy a map and go site seeing in Stone Town, it was a maze of ally ways full of traders and locals on there way to pray. We found out quickly that the Muslims were observing Eid and that unfortunately the schools closed too. After a day of walking and shopping for curios, we made our way back to the hotel. On our arrival, we met with the hotel manager who informs us that the hotel is booked up for our last day and that we have to vacate the room in the morning. This was unfortunate as we are sponsored and then let down with no other arrangements made. Therefore, we enjoy what is to be our last meal there with an awesome sunset.

The day started with a full breakfast and ideas of how we are to find accommodation at such short notice. Therefore, I left Kat with the luggage at the hotel as I walked around Stone Town knocking on at least 12 hotels doors with no success. After hours of no success, I fetched Kat and we made our way as a last resort to the Catholic Church, where we again were not successful. Fortunately, we met a local inhabitant who led us to a place where back packers stays, this I guess you may call a God send, as we had nowhere to sleep. The down side being was that you pay for what you get a Mosquito ridden cave with holes in the ceiling and a communal bathroom and toilet from Hell, linen not included. With elections taking place soon, the town is frantic and full of rallies and posters. We find ourselves walking through dodgy alleys toward the beachfront where we would find a restaurant.

We get a taxi to the airport, now with no power due to a power failure. The flight back to Dar was eventful as I thought the pilot had a learner plate at the rear, due to his ability to fly through clouds and make a turn, otherwise the view of the island is awesome. The taxi driver as always drove like the wind back to Holiday Inn, on arrival we had a second shower in luxury and made contact with Shoprite to collect our supplies. The Landy packed and more time relaxing and planning our itinerary ahead. We found that the hotel was full of non-government organizations, not really tourists; it seemed Tanzania was a country owned by foreign countries, which have sponsored just about everything, it is sad.

We have set off and said our goodbyes, to ever friendly and helpful staff of Holiday Inn. Our next port of call is Bogamoyo, where we found the Paradise Beach Resort to accommodate us. We taxied around town and to the Mission where his loyal servants, Chuma & Susi, took David Livingstone remains, and shipped to England for burial. The mission was quite interesting and worth the visit.

The morning, as always, is beautiful anywhere along the Indian Ocean . Our hosts take us to an orphanage for children who are affected by HIV Aids and poverty. The result being that the whole orphanage is equipped with stationary. We are then taken to the road that would lead us north to a town called Same , the idea was to stay at Mkomazi Game Reserve and meet the famous Tony Fits John who is involved with Rhino Sanctuary. On arrival to Same we stayed at a motel called, elephant Motel which was clean and reasonable. Whilst watching TV we saw the shocking news of the Earthquake that devastated Pakistan and India .

A good night sleep is under mosquito nets as always. The hunt is now on as there is no sign pointing to the Mkomazi Game Reserve. After stopping a police official, we had a faint idea, so we traveled a gravel road through villages and eventually came to a sign some kilometers further away. On arriving at the game reserve office, we approached the guard who in broken English wanted a sum of $80 for 1 night stay, camping. We declined the offer as well as the negotiated price. After 3 km, we drove back as I wanted to contact Tony Fits John via the park radio. After the guard supposing spoke to him on our behalf we got through, after a tariff of $20 with no receipt. To our amazement some 3 km, from the gate a heard of Giraffe, buck etc The reserve was dry although scenic, we came across a heard of cattle too which we felt was odd as the guard said they have lion etc there. On arrival at what seemed to be a head quarters, finally was Tony's camp. We nervously introduced with Tony running toward us with a mask on his face, quite extraordinary. Tony is a character and a half with at times a dry humor you need to understand, or otherwise feel insulted. The best way to describe him, as a mans man. We were asked if we would like to stay in one of his tents, of which we over the moon. He asked to meet at the mess for lunch and for a swim with his family later, which we declined as to not to impose. Later he whisked us away in a short wheelbase to his Cessna plane. He asked not to fly if I am to get sick; possibly, I looked a little green after been thrown around in the back of the Landy. After a pre check, we left the airstrip and were up in the air, flying over the reserve, checking on his outposts, guarding from poachers. The experience was overwhelming, we flew over Tsavo National Park too which was awesome during sunset, it was such an honor being in his company, yet alone been flown around the reserve. After arriving back at camp we freshened up and met for supper, nervously eating at the table next to this legend was an amazing experience. When we were done, we went to bed and marveled at how this man welcomed us both, strangers to stay, accommodated and even flew us .

An experience only rewarded with the sight of Kilimanjaro with a peak full after a snow storm. That morning we invited to his lounge where he showed us his private photo album of picture including those of George Adamson and the lions they so much loved. We are really privileged. That morning we invited to drive around the reserve, we had to decline, as we had to drive to Arusha. Later we donate stationary to the village school in the reserve and make our way to Arusha via Moshi. On our way we are met with huge slopes of a mountain, which is to be Kilimanjaro, we could not see the peak as it was surrounded by cloud, a little disappointing. At least we saw it earlier in the morning from a distance in all its glory. On arriving in Arusha, we found our selves in peak traffic with no idea where we are or where to stay. After time driving backwards and forwards on the Moshi, Nairobi Road we came across a sign pointing toward a mountainside for accommodation, welcoming backpackers, we decided this would work for now. On arriving at this establishment, we were pleasantly surprised with reasonable neat rondawels. We decide we would stay for 2 nights, catch up on some rest, and make a decision, where to go from here, north or south? A good sleep interrupted by the Askari outside mumbling to a friend all night outside our window, after a few words in Swahili out the window, the Askari with gun in hand, shut up.

After waking up to cows and goats and cockerels doing there thing, we began our breakfast left on our doorstep. Next on the agenda was to have a huge bag of clothes washed whilst we make plans to move in a Westerly direction toward the Ngorogoro Crater & Serengeti. Some calls to shipping companies made to ship from Mombassa back to Durban or Cape Town , we decided to make our way south, taking a different route still distributing to villages etc. After a day of heavy decisions, relaxing, packing Landy straight and washing clothes, an early night undertaken.

We are up early, filled up with diesel and we made our way to Ngorogoro. After a long day, passing many a Massaai village and curio shops we stop at the gate where we pay our ridiculous fees. The fees were a total of $155 for two adults and vehicle, camping and a crater entrance fee. The total fees are paid full in US$ only. The incredible story is that it is to increase next January. We are only able to stay for one night and would have to miss out Serengeti, as it was too expensive for two nights plus an additional transit fee. We made our way toward the Crater; you have to take it easy along the rim enroute, as there are many bends with crazy tour operators overtaking at high speeds, full of nervous passengers. We make our way to the gate, entrance to Crater where we produce our permit to a rude official. Our decent down the gravel road was slow in low first gear at times. After 20 minutes decent we make our way to the Crater floor, greeted my herds of Wildebeest and Zebra. Five minutes later, we spot a lion, some 2 km away. Unfortunately was to be the only lion we would see, I guess they have all followed the migration. After a pleasant time spent driving around the Crater watching elephant, and other animals including, Safari companies, we made our way up the steep accent. On arrival at the Simba A, camp on the Crater rim, we found the most disgusting ablutions on Earth; we aptly named it the Crater camp as it was a hole. Later that night the camp was full of over Landers, obviously shipped in with Safari companies. The night would prove to be noisy, not as tranquil as we would have thought, considering we spent R900 for the night. The noise came mostly from the guides, who were drinking all night.

We are woke up early by the noisy guides, now drinking what would seem to be the passengers beers as they are on a game drive, the time is 7 in the morning ! Therefore, after breaking camp in a hurry, we have to exit the camp before paying more fees. All the Jambos and Asante Sanas, Pole Pole and Karibu in the world can not make up for our disappointment. We make our way out and stop at a curio shop for a couple of souveniours and a photo with some Massaai women. The day would prove to be one of a challenge, as the day grew older and we met a gravel road from hell. This gravel road got the better of our spirits at times with detours taken via villages to miss bad sections. The road carried on all day until evening at speeds of 20km to 40 km. It was very frustrating, the vehicle started to fall apart inside as screws broke etc, and we lost our humor by now. Finally, we arrived at the town of Dodoma , not a very impressive town. After driving around we came across a guesthouse called Toms Cottage. The cottage was clean and reasonable, on entering the guest book, a question asked of what tribe you belong to, we found our humor again. A well deserved couple of beers after such a frustrating road. There was not much to celebrate as we had the same road ahead of us for the next day.

True to our predictions, the road was of the same condition. Next on the agenda was to fill up with diesel, we find up to three garages who will not accept dollars. We are a little frantic now and frustrated, I ask the attendant at one garage who is just laughing at me in Swahili, now my humor is out the window. I ask for the boss, who arrives and tells me to follow him to a bureau de change to by Tanzania Shillings. After changing money, we went back to garage, only to ask for petrol money for taking us for one km to get money. As I am filling up police officials, watch us as I loose my temper with who is suppose to be the boss, but lied and is a taxi driver. I ask him to stop harassing me or I will approach the watching police. As I wait for my change after paying, I see him again who is trying to take my change. Eventually I take my money and march off with the attendant to the office where I meet the real boss. The boss sorts out the problem and apologizes. We are disgusted. Therefore, we proceed out of town loosing an hour and getting lost to boot, as we see no signs exiting town, eventually we find a police station, which after begging given an escort out of sorts to the dirt track leading south to the town of Iringa. The road took us through many mountain passes and corrugated roads, a very full day of driving off road we came to the tar road, leading to Iringa, thank God for the GPS; was the only way we knew if to go north or south. The fuel topped up enroute to Iringa; we arrived and decided we were too tired to camp, so we stayed in a rondawel. We met up with travelers, who said we were brave to take the road from Dodoma ; many locals do not use it due to the condition.

The day started early and the road tackled toward the Tunduma border post, bordering Zambia . En route, we see many petrol tankers, unfortunately, we saw one that had just burnt out after driving off a bridge, the whole area was on fire. On arriving in the town of Mbeya , we filled up as from experience Zambia ,it is very expensive. On arriving at the Zambia border, we were harassed as per usual then ignored for 10 minutes as officials sat and played with cell phones. The next official sat paging through a book, knowing I was waiting at the window directly in front of him for 15 minutes. We directed by an irritating man to a container adjacent to the building, it was here that the smelly stuff hit the fan. We are to pay for a sum of 4O OOO Kwacha, which amounts to $ 40. I know this is not so and that the fee for the third party insurance is indeed $20, this he did not agree too and eventually an argument arose as we supplied a permit when we entered Zambia a month ago, his reply was the Dollar fluctuates. The next question was what we can do for him. I hit the roof with the smelly stuff in tow, Kat told him he was corrupt and that he wanted a bribe, as Kat walked out he stood up and pointed in her face in which I almost hit him. I immediately found an official outside and told him what is going on and that he must intervene before something happens, as he was corrupt. We went back to the container , where the story changed and eventually he accepted my $20 and told me I am a hard man, I replies South Africa is full of them, where corruption is concerned, let this be a warning to him, as they say in Afrikaans, Vat Nie Kak Nie ! After this unfortunate incident we made our way into Zambia, 20 km after the border, an odour was coming out of Kats chair, it was the battery ,not her before any one enquires. It was worrying so we decided to take off the terminals off it and drive with the other battery on. Early evening we arrived at Shiwa Nan Gando, we proceeded past and met up with Mark Harvey of Kapisha Hot Springs. We decided to camp for two nights in order to relax and heal some bites from insects whilst bathing. It was here that we found out to our dismay that since a couple of weeks ago, there was no diesel.

We decide after a good sleep, that a swim in the spring would be great as it was soothing. The day started with the changing of spare batteries by Marks mechanic and then back to camp to do nothing except suntan and relax and pack the Landy straight. Great pasta had in full moon light, and a sleep of note. I made a mistake by setting the alarm on the cell, forgetting we have gained an hour back so we were up at four in the morning, an early start anyway. On departing, we donate to the local school and make our way to Shiwa House for a quick tour. The day was again long as we made our way South West toward Lusaka . As we progress, we find towns with no diesel; it became a worry, as we were to run out eventually. The towns consisted of irritating police roadblocks asking where we from, where we going, put lights on, press breaks, indicate etc etc, only to be repeated some 50 m away. Eventually we were entering a town called Serenge, which had diesel. On payment in dollars, the attendant came back complaining that the money was too old, by now I was fed up and changed it to the same currency, he then confronted Kat on arriving back from the toilet, I was anxious to get going as I had only dollars and they filled us up. We paid $100 for 68 liters. Eventually we reached Kabwe as the sun started to drop, we had some time to go before entering Lusaka , where we had no accommodation arranged. A call to Lusaka Holiday Inn, where we stayed previous proved no results, as we could not get the General Manager, eventually we received a call allowing us to come through. This we were very grateful. Holiday Inn became home from home, the staff as always were pleasant and helpful. As always, a good sleep had.

The day as always is an early one, as we hit the road to Livingstone, as we drive we find towns still dry at the pumps. We hit a sudden detour, as a truck is jack knifed across the road with no way around as it was on a mountainside. We find a local in the area who takes us through many a village for an hour with some eight cars behind following. After finding the tar road, we make our way to Livingstone, arriving in the evening at the Zambezi Waterfront. A few drinks had at the bar as we dehydrated and exhausted. I t really is nice to not put a tent up after such a long day on the road, so again we are grateful for the accommodation sponsored.

We are up early and make our way to the curio market at the Victoria Falls to trade etc I discreetly bought a ring for Kat, so when the time and setting is right, I can propose. We then make our way to the Kazungula ferry and across the Zambezi again to Kasane , Botswana . We arrive first at a garage again to use our garage card. With this done we arrive at Chobe Safari Lodge, where we accommodated. A meeting arranged to donate stationary again at the local school and we make our way to buy much needed supplies and view e-mails at the local internet café. We arrive back at the lodge, have early supper, make the donation, and have a sundowner before retiring to the room to relax. Our bags are packed, ready for an early start tomorrow.

A drive across the Chobe National Park took us to the Ngoma Bridge border, with Namibia . The crossing was without harassment and intimidation, which it should be. A sigh relief as we reached Namibia , as we crossed the Caprivi region. During the afternoon, we reached Ngepi camp along the Kavango River, the camp is scenic with plenty of shade and clean ablutions where you can sit under the stars whilst you on the throne or shower. As the evening drew nearer to a close, Kat decided to have a bath with the river idling by and Hippo wallowing in the shallows. It was here that the setting was right and the timing, so I jumped in the tub and asked Kat to marry me, in which the answer was yes. After a while spent there, in the bath that is, we phoned close friends and family. We later joined the couple camping next door and had a couple of drinks at the bar. The night and place never be forgotten, and we will return one day. We also celebrated my mothers 60 th birthday.

A decision made to head off to Grootfontein where we have stayed on a previous trip. On the way, we pulled into Rundu to buy more supplies and then we proceeded toward Grootfontein. The day was scorching and the road continued to be long and relentless. We had heard good things about a camp called, Roy 's Camp just before Grootfontein. I t was a reflex I guess that we turned right and jumped in there pool and did more clothes washing and later had a romantic meal as we watched Kudu, Wildebeest, Eland and Zebra come to drink at the camp water hole.

The start of yet another hot day as the mercury rises to 32 at nine in the morning. We stop again at Tsumeb for fuel and food as we enter Etosha National Park via our first camp at Namutoni. On arrival, we found a campsite and decided to spend the remaining day swimming and chilling out. The waterhole was pleasant; although foreigners think that there, children will be fine by sitting on the fence, separating us from the animals. The camp is relaxing until evening when the campsite is full with overland trucks, unfortunately a truck ascended on top of us with 12 tents surrounding us. Unfortunately, there was to be a party and camp respect fell by the way side as the foreigners thought they should finish there bottles in the wee hours of the morning. One has to question how a campsite allows a truck with 25 passengers to camp next to a camp containing two or three adults, the National parks have to question how viable it is and if the roads can deal with these trucks and indeed the ablutions, we counted six trucks in the campsite. Perhaps they should build a separate camp to cater for trucks as it does ruin the experience, it is also very trying when you need the toilet or a shower after about 20 to a 100 truck passengers have used all 3 or four in the space of an hour.

Our next visit was for lunch at Halali, a camp half way between Okaukeujo and Namutoni. We came to a sudden stop as a Springbok jumped out from behind a tree, quite unnerving. The animals were far and few between, although at the waterholes we were fruitful. We later arrived at the Okaukeujo camp where we found a site and decided to swim and relax. That evening whilst having a braai we were fortunate to hear lion in the surrounding area, we later rewarded as they tried to grab an Oryx, then a giraffe saved by the intervention of a young rhino. It was a pleasure to sleep with the roar of lion in the distance.

The day is an exciting one as we are now making our way through to the Atlantic Coast , where there will be a break from the heat. We drove through the interior, through many dorps to arrive along side dunes and finally a rather cooler Swakopmund. We booked into the very posh Swakopmund Hotel & Entertainment Centre. As always, we freshened up and made our way about town, finding a worthy community to distribute. We made our way about town, buying some necessaries and supplies, after a meal at the legendary Lighthouse restaurant. We had a very quick flutter on the slot machines at the hotel, but no luck.

A much needed hair cut was underway and we made our way around town again and went off with Action Options who took us quad biking over the dunes, a unique experience. We undertook a tour of the local museum and lighthouse. What struck me about Swakopmund is how clean it is, how safe it is, and how every building is painted and well maintained, I challenge any one to e-mail me a copy of a decaying building in town. The day ended again at the Swakopmund Lighthouse restaurant, reason being, the food is good, reasonable and has atmosphere, and a good view. We went back to the hotel to endure some deep heat to our sore muscles due to the biking.

A healthy breakfast at the hotel and we meet up with an organization, involved with a community called DRC, just outside Swakopmund, where we made a healthy donation toward there school, and time just relaxing. Had another flutter on the slot machines, won about R160, but you know how it goes. Therefore, we ended at the lighthouse restaurant again.

We made our way to a guesthouse called, Lilly's Garden that was nice and clean with all the amenities one could want. We later walked round town and visited Shoprite that sponsored us some supplies and we were sponsored a couple of items, which we needed by Greensport. A lazy day was the order and we went to the beach to watch the sundown.

We then pressed on to Walvis bay, it was only 35 km, but seemed a little cooler. On arrival, we booked into Courtyard hotel and rested as I had a very bad headache and felt nauseous. Later we went to a local bakery that has been running for donkey years. After which we went for a drive around town, then back to the hotel, as I was not feeling good. I spent majority of the day sleeping, there was a concern, but I felt better later after some Miprodol. We watched the Proteas on TV, beat the Black Caps at New Lands, we were finally home sick. Later we went to the Walvis Bay Spur, where to date I have had the best Spur steak. For the first time ever I was the best-dressed gent in the restaurant, perhaps it was the Western Province Rugby Jersey and BF Goodrich peak cap. Quite an honor for a Spur, do you agree?

I woke up feeling bloody terrible, I think it might be Malaria. The co owner of the hotel thinks I should see a doctor. Well being stubborn, we went to the salt works and for a walk on the beach instead. We went for a walk around town, filled up with diesel and for a drive to Dune 7. We arrived back at the hotel, so I could relax for a while. I was too tired to go out for a meal so we ordered a take away, which I half finished, I really must be sick.

We were up and ready for the long day drive through the oldest desert in the world, Namib. The drive was not that bad, I was just feeling lousy with a very bad headache. Eventually in the early afternoon we arrived at Sossusvlei Mountain Lodge, the Lodge manager was quite worried about my well being as I had the symptoms of Malaria. I how ever relaxed in the beautiful air-conditioned chalet and Kat and I painted the awesome view, we then took a shower with a view of note as the bathroom surrounded by glass and a panoramic view, it did seem strange sitting on the throne and having a Springbok watch you. The place was wonderful and we made to feel like royalty. They even had a telescope with tri pod, so you can look for game, whilst in the comfort of your armchair. The roof above the white linen bed has a sky light so you can view the stars at night. I spotted a satellite and two shooting stars. The supper was wonderful, three courses with complimentary drinks and an observatory where an astronomer guides you to the planets. A most memorable time, which we will cherish, we are most grateful to CC Africa.

We sadly leave the lodge, not without first donating stationary to the orphanage, which the lodge helps to feed five days a week. We gingerly make our way South to Aus, where I get sick in the local restaurant, the time has come to find a doctor and have a malaria check. We arrive at Klein Aus Vista where we to be accommodated, unfortunate due to the circumstances we stop and decline so we can find a doctor in Luderitz, 120 km away. We were to donate to a local school in the area, but we will have to stop on the way back. We arrive at Luderitz and book into Nest Hotel; we find that the doctor closed, so we decide to go tomorrow. The hotel has all sea facing rooms and the views great. We decided to go to town and have a meal, then came back to the room so I could relax, watching Manchester United with one eye open.

I feel better, maybe it is the thought of seeing a doctor, and we have a hearty breakfast and go to town. On arrival, we find the surgery, after enquiring if they have a malaria testing kit, and they did not. We decided to find a chemist and buy some pain tablets; I have had toothache too, so I made my own diagnosis, Later we went to Kolmanskop, an old diamond ghost town. Next on the agenda was Diaz point and on to Agate beach, which we could not find so we went for lunch at the waterfront. Later we decided to have a siesta and order room service.

The day starts again with a hearty breakfast, compliments of the hotel, and a day just relaxing and then we had the principal of Diaz school arrive at the hotel to collect our donation of stationary to his disadvantaged learners. The Landy as always packed straight. We go to the waterfront for supper and go back to the hotel.

The day is started early, as we have to fill up, Luderitz has no garage open at night. The road is open and to our left and right as we approach Aus, we see the wild horses, apparently left from the Germans during there occupation. We stop at Klein Aus Vista to donate to the school in area, enroute. We arrive near Keetmanship and fill up our bladders and stomachs at a nearby garage, and we head off to the border to Fiddlers on the Creek camp. The border formalities are quick and with out incident. We are glad to be back on South African soil, it has been long and challenging. Next camp is Fiddlers, unbelievable, overland trucks surround us again, one of which is a truck we met in Kande beach, Malawi with the same passengers. Once again, we had an early sleep, only to wake at three with a unanimous vote to empty our bladders. I guess we are anxious to get closer to home, now that we are on the way.

We are in Springbok, keeping up with tradition by having breakfast at Wimpy. Again buying supplies as we are camping with a good friend who has done a lot of background work for us whilst on the road, as well as a donation of a roller draw for the Landy, which fits perfectly with the sponsored draw systems from Alu Cab. The day is at a close as we arrive at Algeria campsite. I t was good to see by friend and share a laugh and a joke. I t feels like a year not two months. The night was spoilt though by a group that again parked on top of us and were up until 1:30 in the morning playing rugby outside our tent and playing with the volume on there car radio and there mouths.

We wake up at six in the morning, considerate of our neighbors to allow us five and a half hours sleep. A few disapproving eyes are glanced there direction as we make breakfast. The day mapped out for us, do nothing. Therefore, we do nothing! We braaied and relaxed and did simply nothing. The night was relaxed and a good night sleep ensued.

We leave early and make our way home, stopping briefly at our families en route, now for the next Expedition. We are in one piece we have achieved what we set out to do regarding distributing stationary to rural and disadvantaged children and communities. I am especially proud of my Fiancé, Kat. She has been the strength when I needed it most and I cannot get her away from the bush now. Without our sponsors, friends, family and support from the public, it would never have been possible